HONG KONG REMEMBERED

On April 4, 2016January 9, 2018 By alisonferryIn Travel, UncategorizedLeave a comment

We were in Hong Kong for a trip down “Memory lane” – unfortunately there is little today to remind one of Colonial days. Beautiful old buildings have been torn down and replaced with monstrosities and the whole feeling of the city as changed. It is frenetic, very crowded and quite soulless. I am so sad and very disappointed – they say it is progress but I totally disagree.

To recap, we spent four days in Singapore first. I remember this place as a stopping off point en route to and from England during our leave. We had friends we stayed with and we have visited several times since. Although the city has been modernised, the beautiful old colonial buildings have been restored and put to good use – for example the old Post Office which is now the Fullerton Hotel. There is a sense of history and heritage everywhere and I find it charming and a relief. Everyone is friendly, English is widely spoken and public transport is clean, efficient and very frequent.

Museum of Singapore – a colonial building which is charming

Raffles Hotel is a prime example of heritage and we made our obligatory visit for curry tiffin and a Singapore Sling!

Then we arrived in Hong Kong. To say the place has changed since 1997 is an understatement and few places are recognisable now. For old time’s sake we decided to go up the Peak where we lived for several years. The Peak Tram was the favourite form of transport then – now it is just a tourist operation and I was appalled to see the queue for the tram was 2 1/2 hours long! Obviously we weren’t going to wait that long, so we took a taxi to the top and walked around Lugard Road – where one of our homes used to be. I remember the view was stunning. A myriad of fairy lights at night, boats criss crossing the harbour, lights twinkling in Kowloon and during the day the hills of Kowloon Peak and the sprawling area of Kowloon and the New Territories shimmered in the sunlight.

The view is still stunning, although much of it is marred by jungle growth these days (a good thing one would think looking at the urban jungle below).

Vieew from Lugard Road c.1959 — View in the late 1950’s

There had been so much reclamation lately that soon the harbour will scarcely exist! Where once we took a vehicular ferry, a sampan or a ‘walla walla’ to cross to the other side, now there are tunnels and the Star Ferry – thankfully it hasn’t changed – takes half the time!

Public transport is excellent. The MTR rail is clean, efficient, modern and very frequent – just try avoiding the rush hours! We made that mistake and were literally pushed into the train on one occasion. The trams and buses are also excellent and the taxis plentiful and cheap. One problem with taxis – it seems many drivers do not speak English, so if you go take a translation of where you want to go and where you have to return to.

A visit to Stanley Village was on the cards. This was a favourite weekend destination and it seems it still is. Now somewhat touristy, the markets are still there and there are heaps of waterfront restaurants now. Blake’s Pier, which used to be in Central and from where we would catch launches for picnics, has been relocated to Stanley to make way for more construction in Central. It looks somewhat lonely in the bay but I am glad it has not lost its character.

Something we never did in the past was go into China for the day. Now it is possible to go to Shenzhen for a shopping day and it is easy on the MTR. Visas are issued on arrival and the you are free to explore the Mall and the myriad of shops around the square. There is so much on offer that I became quite overwhelmed and came away with very little except experience!

We walked around a small part of the town, came across the station and wondered how one found one’s way without knowledge of Chinese characters.

The shopping mall is clean and bright and the shop keepers all tout for business. The day we were there was quiet – weekends and holidays are manic apparently. Nevertheless it was a tiring day both mentally and visually.

Finally the birthday treat – a wonderful high tea at the Peninsula Hotel – again unspoilt and very like the past. Fantastic service, beautiful presentation and an altogether fabulous afternoon.

I doubt we will visit Hong Kong again as I want to remember the place as it was – unhurried, fascinating, historical and beautiful. Happy, smiling people and a blend of all nations. These last two photos are a reminder of the past which will never be recovered.

21-03-2008 12-35-22 PM_0144 — In the New Territories, no longer farms but a concrete jungle

K20D3330 — The calm of junks in a bay on one of the many islands around Hong Kong – a favourite weekend retreat for us.

ADELAIDE AND CELEBRATING 4TH JULY ON AN OLIVE FARM !

On July 23, 2015 By alisonferryIn TravelLeave a comment

It was July 4th and we were back in Adelaide for a few days before returning home. This is an important day for our American friends and one which calls for celebration and feasting – whether you are in the US or in Australia. Thus we were invited by some old friends who live on an olive farm south of Adelaide, and the very date gave Pat, who is from the Midwest, cause to put on a typical American Independence Day luncheon.

First we went to the Central Market which is an enormous market in the centre of Adelaide and which stocks anything you may wish for. Whenever I go there my eyes water at the choice on offer and again I realise how disadvantaged we are in the Far North when it comes to produce.

We chose several delicacies and some flowers to take with us to Myponga and an hour later we arrived at the olive farm.

It was the most beautiful day and the farm is in a lovely area with stunning views of the hills and the sea beyond.

Inside the house we found decorations which left us in no doubt that a US citizen lives here! It reminded me a little of Christmas actually. The smells from the kitchen were enticing as well.

A beautifully set table for us all to experience new tastes – on offer were ribs, corn, sausages in blankets, slow cooked beans and a gelatine salad.

So we settled in to a hearty lunch and amusing conversation with stories dating back to years spent in Papua New Guinea prior to Adelaide. Lots of reminiscing.

A little tour of the olive trees followed and a gift of the simply wonderful Sugu Plantation olive oil produced in house. It was a lovely end to a perfect day.

The following day we drove to Hahndorf in the hills and on the way stopped at Mt. Lofty for the view which is amazing and stretches for miles and miles.

Finally we had coffee in an unusual coffee shop in Glenelg and were fascinated to see these stools – where apparently you can do a cycle workout whilst sipping your cappuccino or Latte! Nice one Adelaide!

It was a fitting end to our South Australian adventure – which could be also called “A Foodies Gourmet Trail” and we returned with lots of seafood and several deli items.

HOUSEBOAT DAYS – SUPERB, SCENIC AND SERENE

On July 20, 2015 By alisonferryIn TravelLeave a comment

Fog greeted us on our first morning, a fog which was thick enough not to be able to navigate the river but which lifted quickly and created an ethereal mist which was quite beautiful drifting amongst the trees.

Driving was easy and we all had a turn; at only 4 – 6 knots we seemed to glide along the river and there were no other craft about. This is not the season for houseboats but we loved it for being so quiet and not having to worry about speedboats and water skiers!

The beautiful red cliffs at Big Bend were awe inspiring and went on for miles.

Pelicans were everywhere, either in flocks or swimming serenely on their own. They were not at all disturbed by us passing by and tended to ignore our presence even when we tried to entice them with fish.

Late on afternoon we decided to walk along the river bed and climb up one of the cliffs. It was a beautiful walk amongst the gum trees and bushy scrub with little wildflowers here and there.

This cliff looks as though it needs holding up!

Our “home” successfully tied up for the night – next was to find firewood at which Rob excelled and our fires each night were spectacular.

So were the sunsets…..

We never tired of river scenes – in fact there was so much to see we didn’t have time to do much reading for fear of missing something!

Flocks of birds including corellas and cockatoos were in various pockets of the river, these were at a lagoon on our last night.

And so we farewelled the beautiful River Murray – until next time….

OUR ‘UNFORGETTABLE’ HOUSEBOAT

On July 18, 2015July 18, 2015 By alisonferryIn TravelLeave a comment

We flew to Adelaide early in the morning and after shopping for supplies, we drove to Mannum on the Lower Murray – an hour and a half away – where our houseboat was waiting for us. Mannum is known as the Houseboat capital of Australia and a number of companies are located here. We chose ‘Unforgettable’ as it could accommodate our party of 11 in 6 queen size bedrooms all with ensuites. Http://www.houseboats.com.au

On top of this luxury we also had a jacuzzi, a huge gourmet kitchen complete with dishwasher and microwave, ducted air conditioning and an outdoor barbecue. After a quick lesson on the mechanics and driving of the craft, we set off for our first stop for the night.

Houseboats lined up at Mannum

But first we had to unpack the stores which included cartons of wine and beer and lots of gourmet food. Clearly we were going to be doing a lot of feasting!

The river is wide and to my amazement there were pelicans everywhere. I love these graceful, often aloof birds and spent hours capturing them on film at various times of the day.

After choosing our spot for the night, the next challenge was to tie up. No anchors here! The method is to steer the boat to the edge of the river, firmly plant the gangplank to the shore, find two trees to tie the ropes to and settle down for the night! Easier said than done.

“Yes, this looks OK”

oops, better try putting the gangplank down again!

Now to tie one side…..

Settled, now for the campfire…..

and a few sundowners

Then it was time to have our first meal on the Houseboat – and a celebration of a special birthday with masses of seafood brought from Port Lincoln and Coffin Bay.

A good time was had by all – especially Chel in the white sweater!

This is a typical scene along the river and we were looking forward to seeing lots more including the beautiful limestone cliffs towards Walker Flat. Tomorrow is another day.

COFFIN BAY, THEAKSTONE’S CREVASSE AND WHALERS WAY – SOUTH AUSTRALIA

On July 16, 2015 By alisonferryIn History, TravelLeave a comment

No visit to Port Lincoln is complete without a trip to Coffin Bay and a tasting of the famous oysters. We set off for lunch at a newly opened restaurant but first we took a detour to the beautiful Whaler’s Way and Theakstone’s Crevasse which is some 32 km from Port Lincoln.

Located on private property – owned by the same family since 1860 and old friends of the Ferry family – we obtained the key from Bob Theakstone and navigated the sandy, winding road first to Cape Wiles which was named after the botanist James Wiles who sailed with Flinders in 1802. This is part of an area known as Whaler’s Way and an old whaling station can still be seen at Fishery Bay. The Whalers made a living off Southern Right Whale blubber and today these massive whales once again pass through the waters annually during the winter months.

Cape Wiles is truly spectacular and dozens of fur seals are often seen splashing around the base of the golden sandstone islands just off the point.

It was blustery but a beautiful day – so the clan gathered for a photo opportunity! Then we drove on to Cape Carnot which is at the southwesterly tip of the Eyre Peninsula and named by the French explorer Nicolas Baudin in 1802. The waves are often freakish and have claimed lives. The full force of the Southern Ocean meets some of the oldest rock formations on the planet and, well known to geologists, these rocks are some 2460 million years old. We didn’t have time to climb down to them but the view was pretty spectacular.

Finally we came to Theakstone’s Crevasse, which I first visited in 1969 and it hasn’t changed! It is a deep fissure along a fault line formed over millions of years and is 1-2m wide and 13m deep. The walls are said to be 9m high. The crevasse has been scoured by the sea and extends some 30m underground.

Time was beating us so we made our way out of the property and on to Coffin Bay where we had booked lunch at 1802 – a new restaurant on the foreshore of the pretty village.

Matthew Flinders named the bay in February 1802 in honour of his friend Sir Thomas Coffin who was Naval Commissioner at Sheerness where the “Investigator” was fitted out. The waters are calm and ideal for oyster farming which has grown over the years. Surrounded by National and Conservation Parks, this is an ideal family holiday location with lots of fishing, kayaking, walking, water sports and fabulous scenery. We were there primarily for the oysters and they didn’t disappoint!

Then it was back to Port Lincoln and a visit to the local winery – Boston Bay Wines which is located on the shores of Boston Bay.

Love the name of the Sav Blanc – this is the home of The Great White after all! We didn’t have the time nor the inclination to swim with the sharks but hundreds do!

Makybe Diva – the famous racehorse, winner of the Melbourne Cup and owned by Port Lincoln identities. The statue is on the foreshore and this was taken early in the morning on our walk to our breakfast spot.

Farewell to Port Lincoln – you have turned on the best weather and showcased the full beauty of the region which we have managed to explore in just three days but we all vowed we will return.

PORT LINCOLN – SEAFOOD CAPITAL OF AUSTRALIA

On July 15, 2015July 15, 2015 By alisonferryIn TravelLeave a comment

The first part of our trip to South Australia and the River Murray was a quick visit to Richard’s home town of Port Lincoln. A picturesque town on the Eyre Peninsula which has grown and developed over the years since I have been visiting. From a relatively sleepy place in the early 70’s to a very dynamic and thriving community today, Port Lincoln is known as the “Seafood Capital of Australia” and is perhaps the nation’s biggest combined agricultural and fishing centre. Tuna, prawns, lobster, abalone and scale fish are the major fishing and aquaculture industries and there is also major farming including sheep, beef and cereal crops.

We flew in by Qantas Link and checked into the Port Lincoln Hotel which is right on the bay in the centre of town. The next morning we were greeted with the most magnificent sunrise……

We devised a little “Port Lincoln Discovery Tour” for our group which consisted of Chel and Rob, Eva and Hark and Jeff – all of whom had not visited the area before and were keen to see the tuna farms and, most importantly, visit Coffin Bay, the home of our favourite oysters.

We set off early on a short boat tour of Boston Bay and the tuna farms with Peter from Triple Bay Charters who explained the whole tuna and fishing industry, showed us Fur seals and Sea lions and lastly gave us a tasting of fresh Blue Fin Sashimi tuna. http://www.triplebaycharters.net.au

The boat takes 8 passengers and Peter is a wonderful guide. We set off from Port Lincoln Marina and Peter explained the different types of boats used for tuna, prawns and deep sea fishing.

Then we headed out to the tuna farms which are situated off Boston island in the middle of Boston Bay. The tuna are caught in the ocean and placed in the round netted cage where they are towed very slowly to the bay. They are carefully tended each day and grow to an enormous size before they are sold and sent all over the world but primarily to Japan.

After observing and feeding and maintenance of the nets, we cruised to a little bay off the island and had a wonderful time watching the beautiful Fur seals and several large sea lions – all sharing the rocks with hundreds of birds.

Look at the whiskers!

Finally it was time to drop anchor and have the long anticipated sashimi tasting!

Different grades of tuna all sliced ready for tasting.

And here is the prepared plate with horseradish, pickled radish, wasabi and soy sauce.

Chel, Rob and Richard intently listening to the correct method of serving and eating sashimi!

The pelican and jellyfish couldn’t care less….

And here is the group – fully informed about the aquaculture and fishing industries of Port Lincoln and well fed on sashimi!

ANOTHER MAGICAL WEEKEND ON MAGNETIC ISLAND – BEFORE THE CELEBRATIONS BEGIN !

On June 23, 2015 By alisonferryIn TravelLeave a comment

It is winter here – although you wouldn’t know it. The sun shines every day and because we haven’t had as much rain as normal, the bougainvillea and other flowering shrubs are all magnificent.

Next week we will feel differently I know – we are off to South Australia for ten days of food and wine plus exploring the Murray River but first we are off to Port Lincoln to visit the tuna farms and the wonderful Coffin Bay oysters. It will be very cold down there, so we made the most of this glorious weather at the weekend.

A friend came over for the day on Sunday – to give his boat a bit of a run but also to have a walk with us and lunch at Picnic Bay before we all returned to town on the boat.

The walk to Picnic Bay is beautiful, especially at this cooler time of year. It starts along the beach and finishes on this cliffside boardwalk with stunning views of the rocks and hoop pines before winding through a bush track into the little settlement.

At the top of the boardwalk, nestled in the rocks is an unusual painting – we call it “Scotch on the Rocks” and it was done at least thirty years ago by some creative person who had a vivid imagination. The colours are somewhat faded but you can still make out the tam ‘o shanter and the eyes and mouth.

Beautiful views of Rocky Bay are always breathtaking and this time it was low tide. There is a craggy path down to the beach and it is often deserted as it can only be reached on foot or by boat.

Then down along the bush track there are glimpses of the city of Townsville and the port.

Occasionally you can see a koala in the wild – you have to really look hard as they make the eucalypts their home and in places the leaves and branches are very dense.

After a beautiful lunch at the Picnic Bay Hotel and a leisurely wander back, we gathered our things, hopped on the boat and cruised back home.

This is Castle Hill and the Strand beach with the marina rock wall in the foreground. We are back after a relaxing weekend. Now to prepare for the ten days of birthday celebration. I ask you – who celebrates for ten days straight?

FAREWELL BRUNY AND HELLO AGFEST

On May 25, 2015May 25, 2015 By alisonferryIn TravelLeave a comment

Our visit to Bruny would not be complete without exploring the very south western tip of the island and the old lighthouse at Cape Bruny. Built by convict labour in 1838, it was first lit in March 1838 and was Tasmania’s third lighthouse. It is situated on a particularly spectacular spot overlooking the wild ocean and beautiful Cloudy Bay.

The road to the lighthouse is long and very bumpy in parts but a visit is well worth while – walking up the hill to the lighthouse itself can be a challenge as the wind whips around the cliffs and makes standing upright somewhat difficult! The air, however, is so pure and clean one can imagine it has blown straight from Antarctica it is so cold!

Wildlife in this area remained elusive except for the odd wallaby, rabbit and some birds. One little creature which is quite numerous on the island and particularly in the south is the rare white wallaby. I couldn’t believe my eyes the first time I saw him, munching grass quite happily in front of our house.

We left Bruny on a bright but cold morning and after a night in Hobart we drove to Launceston where, to our great surprise, we found snow on the Pass. It was sunny and very cold but quite beautiful to see the first fall for the season.

Then it was Agfest – the yearly Agricultural Show held just outside Launceston. We love coming here as there is something for everyone. I love the Craft Pavilions where there is every type of craft on display and for sale. This, to me, is very motivating and I always come home full of enthusiasm for new projects – half of which ever get done! The Food Hall is also very popular and the wonderful Scallop Pies – a speciality of this area – sell out very quickly. Then there are the animals, the wonderful llamas and their beautiful wool, cattle, sheep and our favourite – the Sheep Dog Trials. The day is always full and rain or shine, it is always fun.

Watching the sheep dogs perform – they are amazing.

I wonder how he can see!

Baby animals are always a hit

The Supertank and hints on fishing holds a captive audience – all sitting on hay bales!

Beautiful display of produce – anyone for pumpkin soup?

Just before leaving Launceston we called into the Farmer’s Market where locals buy their meat, fish, fruit and vegetables for the week. There is even a Boulangerie with real French bread baked by the local French baker – the pain au chocolat was to die for. Together with an excellent cup of coffee this is my perfect breakfast.

Finally it was time to leave Tassie for this year –

Bye Bye Tasmania – see you again next year!

SOUTHERN OCEAN ADVENTURE

On May 21, 2015May 21, 2015 By alisonferryIn TravelLeave a comment

Here we were, on Bruny Island, and right at the doorstep of a Wilderness Journey which has been tagged “One of the Greatest 100 Trips of the World” (by Travel and Leisure 2008 Year Book). Of course, we HAD to do it ! As we were staying in Adventure Bay, the departure point for the trip, we wandered down to the booking office late one afternoon and decided to book for the following day as strong winds were forecast for the day after.

The morning dawned and it was pouring with rain. Not just pouring, teeming with rain, relentlessly and driving. Heavy wet stuff combined with wind and a chill temperature of about 8C. If we had been at home, we would have cancelled the trip and stayed by the fire, or at least indoors. However, this is Tasmania and the weather changes hourly, so feeling optimistic we set out for the warm coffee shop alongside the office. The rain continued to pour and the fog set in and I was thinking “this is hopeless, we won’t see anything…” but I was wrong. As we set off for the jetty to board the Yellow Boat, miraculously the rain stopped!

The boats are named the 4WD of the sea and are designed to cruise in all weather every day of the year. They are safe and comfortable and look like a jet boat with zodiac sides which apparently allows for manoeuvrability and gets close to cliff faces and into sea caves.

Once aboard we were given floor length wet weather gear complete with hoods and told to put them on as it was likely there would be spray and it would be cold! Once that was done the skipper handed out ginger tablets and then told everyone this was an adventure trip – not a luxury cruise – and to expect the unexpected. Here we are in our glamorous attire:

We set off out off Adventure Bay, round Penguin island and travelled along the spectacular coastline towards some rocks known as The Friars. All the while the skipper was talking about the early history of Adventure Bay, of the aboriginals and the early explorers. The co skipper, a lovely girl called Belinda, then spoke about the wildlife and what we would be seeing. These included Australian and New Zealand Fur Seals, Dolphins, Seabirds by the hundred and perhaps Whales.

The cliffs were amazing and are 272m Jurassic Dolerite sea cliffs formed 160 million years ago. Apparently they are among the tallest in the world. This was awesome. We saw “Breathing Rock” which was a blow hole and quite incredible, went into deep sea caves and passed through some narrow gaps between sheer cliffs which had our hearts in our mouths – the skipper had obviously done this many times before! We drifted out to the point where the Tasman Sea meets the Southern Ocean and luckily for us it was relatively calm.

Yes, we went through this gap….

And this one….

The Blow Hole

There are giant kelp forests – and many of them. It was everywhere and is fascinating stuff. It’s a wonder someone doesn’t farm it – but maybe they do.

We found hundreds of seals basking on the rocks and they were quite unperturbed by our presence. The smell and the noise they make is something else!

Note the kelp growing along the edge of the rock and the high tide mark.

There were thousands of birds all with their own habits – the albatross are among my favourite and watching them take off from the ocean, fly around and come in to land is quite fascinating.

Other birds were nesting on the rocks and clearly had hierarchy !

We drifted into calm bays and then ventured into the wild ocean and all the while the rain stayed away and the sun even appeared. It was a magnificent day and one I would thoroughly recommend to anyone who is in Hobart or on Bruny island.

On the way back – and feeling good!

The calm of Adventure Bay.

For more information about the tour go to:www.pennicottjourneys.com.au

BRUNY ISLAND – BEACHES, WILDLIFE, SCENERY AND THE SOUTHERN OCEAN

On May 17, 2015 By alisonferryIn History, TravelLeave a comment

The moment we drove off the vehicular ferry onto Bruny Island, we felt we had stepped back in time. This is a stunning island and what is more surprising is that it is the size of Singapore in area which has a population of 6 million or so and yet on Bruny there are only 650 permanent residents.

The road to Adventure Bay, where we had booked a house for a couple of days, is well sealed and the drive takes about 40 minutes. Along the way found boutique produce such as cheese, wine, chocolates, fudge, salmon and a berry farm which was, sadly, closed as it was out of season. Undeterred we made our first stop at the oyster farm – this is pure heaven for oyster lovers. Workers were busy shucking as we got there, visitors were guzzling them down with buckets of wine and there were lots of sauces and accompaniments to tempt every palate.

Next stop was the Cheese Factory – where tastings were offered and the smell of wood fired sourdough bread was inviting.

On a little further and we found the chocolate and fudge shop – there the chocolate coated coffee beans won out but the choice was endless.

The scenery along the road is breathtaking and it is rare to pass another vehicle. Adventure Bay is towards the southern end of the island and we had to pass along a narrow isthmus which, apparently in days gone by, the local aboriginal tribes crossed regularly hunting for wallabies, fish and penguins. Now there is a well constructed walkway to the top of the hill affording magnificent views but also providing safe passage as this is also a penguin rookery.

It’s a long climb – but worth it once at the top!

I was very moved by the tale of an Aboriginal woman called Truganini. A plaque at the top of the hill commemorates her life which was forever changed by the white invasion. Her tribal connection went back 30,000 years and yet the arrival of white man brought violence and brutality. At the age of 17 Truganini witnessed the stabbing murder of her mother by men from a whaling ship, Sealers captured her two sisters, Timber getters killed the man she was to marry and she was repeatedly raped by the men, her brother was killed and her step-mother kidnapped by escaped convicts. Not surprisingly her father was devastated and died within months.

Following the loss of her entire family, Truganini worked as a guide and interpreter for George Robinson who had been appointed by the colonial government to persuade the Aborigines to peacefully give up their land. Promises were broken, people were exiled and many died of disease of despair. Eventually, Truganini spent many years at a settlement on Flinders Island before dying at the age of 64 in Hobart.

It is hard to imagine those dreadful days when today there is peace and serenity everywhere.

We arrived at the tiny settlement of Adventure Bay and found our house not far from the beach, up on the hill in a quiet little community. Wallabies greeted us at the top of the drive and then scurried into the bush.

The house is cosy and it wasn’t long before we had a log fire burning and a spread of delicacies picked up from the Deli in Hobart and local stores along the way, all washed down with fine Tasmanian wine. A perfect start to our little stay on Bruny Island.