DAY SEVEN – DRUKGYAL DZONG AND A TRADITIONAL FARMHOUSE VISIT

Our last day and we had the option of walking up to the famous Tiger’s Nest or a drive to the countryside and a visit to a farmhouse which is also used as a Homestay for visitors. We opted for the latter and drove out to another important landmark in Bhutan, Drukgyal Dzong which is heritage listed by UNESCO and was built around 1649. It was completely destroyed by fire in 1951 and lay in ruins until 2016 when the King announced that restoration would begin in 2016 to commemorate the birth of the Prince.

We stopped at the local village and walked up a tiled path to the Dzong but as it was still under renovation we were unable to go inside. The views were lovely and there was a sense of peace and serenity. The fortress was built to repel the invasion by Tibet at that time. Modern Bhutan was once part of Tibet and a succession of wars and invasions followed for years before Bhutan gained sovereignty. The Dzong was used after the war as a trading post and rice was sent to Tibet and salt and tea were imported.

On the way to ur farmhouse visit we stopped at the area where tourists begin the walk up to the Tiger’s Nest. There were crowds of people and many opted to go on the backs of ponies – not something I was totally in agreement with – thinking of the ponies rather than the tourists. However, again the tourist dollar reigned supreme.

Something far more appealing to me was an introduction to a family who lived in a typical farmhouse close to the Tiger’s Nest area. Our hostess spoke excellent English having worked for some years with the Aman Hotel group. Through her experience she knew that some visitors might prefer to have a traditional Homestay with a family rather that stay in a western style hotel so she opened her home a couple of years ago and is accredited with the Government as a legitimate host.

Corn and chillies were drying in the sun at the entrance to the house and pots of herbs were growing on the wall opposite. As with traditional houses this one was elaborately decorated with paintings and carvings. We noticed the phallus painting at the entrance such as we had seen at the Divine Madman’s village yesterday but that was many kilometres away and proved that this god is revered all over the country.

We climbed a ladder to reach the upstairs area where guests are accommodated. The large kitchen was downstairs and several family members were there chatting and cooking.

Very ornately decorated, the upstairs area was comfortable and a large loom with a weaving work in progress was against one wall.

There were no chairs and tables – cushions on the floor and a tray serving as a table were placed for our use. The windows were small to keep the heat in during the long winter days and nights and everyone slept in the same room on the floor on futon style mattresses which are rolled during the day.

Chencho had come prepared with his famous ginger tea and delicious snacks consisting of banana bread, cookies and roasted nuts. He immediately sat on the floor and prepared our little feast under the watchful eye of our hostess.

Hot stone baths are well known in Bhutan and here was no exception.

It is interesting to note that one of the ancient names for Bhutan is Menjung, which means “The Land of Medicinal Herbs”. The history of medicine in Bhutan dates back to Tibet in the 7th century, and has borrowed heavily from Indian Ayurvedic practices. 

Bhutanese hot baths are not like the other hot baths around the world. It uses Menchu, which means medicinal water. Menchu consists of fresh water and Artemisia absinthium (wormwood) leaves. The combination is heated with river stones that have been roasted over a fire until they are burning hot. To increase the temperature of the water, more heated stones are added into the main tub through a chute.

At this farm, stones are fetched manually from the riverbed nearby and placed in a wooden tub on the ground floor after they have been heated and then copious receptacles of water are heated and poured into the bath. This can only be used a couple of times before the whole process starts again!

It was a fascinating insight into the lives of farming people. Apart from Homestay this was a working farm growing crops in particular corn and chillies.

Thus ended our last day in Bhutan. We had an amazing dinner that night and reflected on all we had experienced in the past week. The memories are indelible and I will forever remember the beautiful dogs and the endless prayer flags, prayer wheels, the red and saffron robed monks, the temples, architecture, landscapes and the happiness of the people. And it goes without saying we will not forget Chencho and Sonam – our wonderful guides. “Log jay gay – Tashi Delek”