The Road ahead to El Questro

On April 19, 2019April 19, 2019 By alisonferryIn History, TravelLeave a comment

The road is getting more picturesque as we journey on but I have to admit that the tiny bush flies and the intense heat is quite trying at times. However all that is forgotten as we drive deeper into the Kimberley area.

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Our home for the next two days was a safari tent at Emma Gorge, part of the El Questro station. We decided to go “glamping” after our wonderful adventures in Africa in similar accommodation. We didn’t think about the heat this time!

We organised a trip to Explosion Gorge and Branko’s lookout for sunset drinks but first we had to find a picnic spot to satisfy our hunger – it was lunchtime and the drive to El Questro station passes a beautiful waterhole called “Jackeroo Waterhole” and this was the ideal place to relax for half an hour before a bone shaking 4 wheel drive tour.

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The trip we booked is closed to public vehicles as the terrain is so rough. We boarded an open safari type vehicle with six other guests and set off along the roughest track I have yet experienced!

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and then over some more stones

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Then, whilst the vehicle was almost amphibious, we had a stunning view of the Homestead which is available for rent at over $3000 a night. We were told it is pretty special and every comfort is provided with gourmet meals and staff included.

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The history of the station is interesting as it was a pastoral lease for many years and in 1991 a tall, handsome English aristocrat, named Will Burrell, arrived by helicopter and was interested in investing part of the fortune he inherited from his grandmother – the doyenne of the Penguin publishing empire. He liked what he saw and bought the million acres as a working cattle ranch. He intended to build a home for himself and envisioned a stylish getaway for adventurous travellers and ultimately a tourism venture with a range of accommodation from caravan park and camping to bungalows and tented cabins. After a lot of hard work and millions of dollars his dream was realised and today it is a luxury wilderness park with a variety of tour options, guided walks and self drive itineraries. It is now owned by an American company and open only from April to October because of weather conditions.

Our guide, Tommy, took us first to the great Boab tree where the Durack family camped in 1863 whilst droving their cattle from New South Wales to the Kimberley. The tree has the Durack carved initials and has increased in size over the years.

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A very rough drive some time later brought us to Explosion Gorge where we left the vehicle and boarded a small punt for an hour on the water

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The colours are truly amazing and the red of the rock contrasted with the blue water and the varying hues of green of the bush.

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Then we spied a young freshwater crocodile just basking in the sun on the ledge. He remained motionless for some time and then suddenly slid into the water with a huge splash.

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The name “Explosion Gorge” came about because Will Burrell apparently found a cache of dynamite one day and decided to go fishing. What better to attract the fish than an explosive such as dynamite so he lit it and the rest is history!

On the rough ride to our sunset lookout we came across a beautiful nest made by a bower bird and in such a safe location that it can never be attacked by prey or fire.

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A winding road led to the top of an escarpment where a plateau gave us an amazing view of the river and the whole landscape of the area.

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The colours began to change as the sun sank lower and out came the champagne and beers – very welcome after the dusty drive!

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The moon reflected on the water before night fell making this a very special place.

Straight Road to Timber Creek

On April 15, 2019April 15, 2019 By alisonferryIn History, TravelLeave a comment

The endless blue skies and long straight road led us out of Darwin south towards Katherine. First we stopped at Pine Creek, a small town with a historical past. I was interested to see that at one time the Chinese well outnumbered the Europeans who were all there for the Gold Rush.

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Today it is a quiet town which services the tourist industry mainly. However, it is a good stopping point to take a small rest before conquering many more kilometres.

The iconic windmill which was so common in the past and now is seen less often in favour of solar power.

The next stop was Victoria River Roadhouse which also has accommodation and where many keen fishermen make their base before setting off on the Victoria River for barramundi. It was very hot, very dry and there were lots of flies, so I was keen to keep moving but not before we called in for a chat with the owners. Someone has a great sense of humour – see below:

Crocodiles live here so no swimming and great care is taken to put boats in and out of the water.

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The road began to curve after this and the scenery started to change to hills and escarpments. A nice change from the flat terrain we had become accustomed to. Now we are in The Big Country and this is where the Durack Family made their mark by settling on leases in the Northern Territory and walking hundreds of cattle up here from Queensland. Several books have been written about the family at this time – the most well known being “Kings in Grass Castles” by Mary Durack.

Finally we arrived at Timber Creek after some 610km from Darwin. It was a relief to find the Hotel/Motel/Caravan Park and the big surprise was the amazing location. In a dry, dusty landscape, this was a little oasis.

Lovely grassy areas where children could play and shady barbecue and picnic areas were dotted around all with the creek in the background. OHnUrFO0SL2qqMlSA%2fdg_thumb_1f2.jpg

Huge timber trees along the creek edge obviously gave the place its name and the creek now has several resident freshwater crocodiles. Wandering down to the water’s edge I was amazed to see quite a large croc just slowly surface from what seemed the calmest millpond. There was absolutely no indication that the reptile was there!

Other residents of this gorgeous place are the fruit bats – of which we have lots in North Queensland and consider them a pest – however there are some people who think they are “cute”.

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This morning we drove up to a lookout and learned the story of the “Nackeroos” – The North Australian Observation Unit (NAOU) or “Curtin’s Cowboys” which was formed in March 1942 after the bombing of Darwin and was made up of a group of soldiers and Aboriginal guides who patrolled Northern Australia looking for signs of enemy activity. They operated in small groups and most of the patrols were on horseback. They lived in the harsh bush conditions and were aided by Aboriginal locals who had knowledge of the area. Their story is inspiring and a monument has been built to honour them.

From this location is a great view of the town of Timber Creek and the Victoria River in the distance.

Now it is on to Western Australia and Lake Argyle in the Kimberley – the road changes from here on!

WORLD WAR II HISTORY IN THE TOP END

On April 14, 2019April 14, 2019 By alisonferryIn History, TravelLeave a comment

During World War II Darwin became the first mainland state in Australia to come under direct attack from the Japanese when it was the target of over 64 air raids causing huge devastation and many casualties. The attacks were totally unexpected at the time – in fact the sight of some 180 aircraft over the city caused many to believe the Americans had come to help. Instead, the bombing began and caught everyone unawares.

Much of this unique military history is preserved and scattered around the city. We drove to the East Point Military Reserve which is a beautifully tended area with picnic bays and shady rest points from which you can get a view of the city of Darwin across the bay.

This is where the Darwin Military Museum is located – some 8 kms from the city centre – and it is absolutely incredible with fantastic relics, photographs, displays, interactive stories and a very realistic film about the day Darwin was bombed.

Outside there are numerous displays set up in huts and hangars portraying the various roles the Army, Navy and Airforce played.

Guns, trucks, ammunition magazines and camouflaged vehicles also take pride of place in the grounds

One story which brought me to tears was of the selfless courage and bravery shown by a young gunner on board a ship the day the bombing occurred. He was strapped to his gun, had been hit and the ship was going down but he continued to fire allowing some of his mates to dive into the water and perhaps survive – he was fatally wounded whilst firing his gun – and he was 27 days short of his 19th birthday. The photo on the wall shows a painting of him firing whilst wounded. In later years the Navy honoured his bravery by naming a ship after him.

Following this visit we then joined Sea Darwin for a one hour tour of the harbour showing where the action occurred and where several wrecks are located including the USS Peary. The commentary included some stories which have since been related by survivors of the attacks.

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Various tunnels and lookout posts were pointed out and we had a really good perspective from the sea.

Finally we visited the RFDS (Royal Flying Doctor Service) museum on the wharf which not only gave the history of the Service (which we also saw in Cloncurry, where it all began) but also were able to board a plane as well as see a map of Australia showing where all 73 aircraft are currently located. This is, of course, constantly moving as many flights are in operation day to day.

There is also an excellent interpretation of the bombing of Darwin which is shown by Hologram film as well as by Virtual Reality.

This was the most amazing experience. One moment you are flying in the plane with a pilot shooting down the Japanese, the next you are wallowing in the sea with boiling timber, metal and oil all around. Bombs are flying everywhere and as you spin around and look up and down, the whole scene becomes so real that it is quite terrifying at times!

Interactive mini ghosts tell their story – including that of the first Japanese Pilot captured in Australia – Hajime Toyoshima. There is a full size replica Japanese Zero aircraft hanging from the ceiling and a replica of Camilla, the Flying Boat that escaped from Darwin Harbour during the raid.

For those interested in World War II history in Australia, Darwin is most definitely a place to visit as you can certainly have a very powerful, immersive and interactive experience at several locations.

The Road Leads to Darwin

On April 13, 2019April 13, 2019 By alisonferryIn History, TravelLeave a comment

Darwin, known as The Gateway to Northern Australia, is a lovely tropical city. With so much history to devour, you really need several days here. Then there are the world famous markets, festivals, cafes and a thriving arts scene and yet things move at a slower pace than down south and I can’t help feeling this would be a great place to settle for a while.

For a start there are fabulous sunsets and this one is from the balcony of a friend’s apartment very close to the city. There don’t seem to be traffic problems and on a drive to the museum yesterday this is what we came across :

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Hardly what you expect to see in the middle of a city!

We walked along the Esplanade and came to The Waterfront area which is both residential and recreational with a big wave pool and swimming lagoon and a park for the kids.

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There are restaurants galore and we settled for a coffee before walking back – with the bonus of a lift to take us back up to the Esplanade thus avoiding the slog of walking up the hill in the heat!

One activity the Darwinites love apparently is the Deckchair Cinema. This is down by the water and screens films nightly with a bar and restaurant food available if you don’t want to bring a picnic. How tropical is that?!

Keen to see the MAGNT (Museum and Art Gallery Northern Territory) we drove through the attractive seaside suburb of Fannie Bay and past the Botanical Gardens to find the Northern Territory’s premier cultural organisation set in a scenic coastal location at Bullocky Point with a restaurant/cafe alongside with views over the bay. The museum features collections of art from the region as well as natural science, history and culture. There is a lot of local history and there is a huge exhibit featuring Cyclone Tracey which devastated the city on Christmas Eve in 1974.

The collection of animals, insects, reptiles, shells and sea life is huge and it is all presented so well and the exhibits are so real that it is easy to imagine all this outside in the environment.

This is the little Jacana and babies – we saw several in Kakadu but they are shy and elusive so to be able to gaze upon these without missing anything is a real bonus.

Some fascinating aboriginal art is presented along with comprehensive explanations and even a desert artist shows her skill with a paintbrush fashioned from the tail hair of a dog – her intricate and steady lines were quite amazing. Her hand never faltered.

One immersive exhibition tells the story of the didgeridoo – or yidaki as it is known here. It illustrates the importance of the instrument in Aboriginal life and culture and begins with exploring a stringybark forest to find the right tree and then carving the yidaki and finally experiencing the mesmerising power of the sounds. The painting on the wood – as shown above – all has significance to the owner, the artist and the tribe. I actually felt goosebumps at the end of the performance.

And for those who are fascinated by dinosaurs this prehistoric skeleton is that of a giant goose – something I am sure 6 year old Hamish would love to see!

Tomorrow we will immerse ourselves in the era of World War 2 in Darwin and there is much to see and experience.

The Road leads to Kakadu

On April 10, 2019April 10, 2019 By alisonferryIn History, TravelLeave a comment

When you think of Kakadu the image conjured immediately is one of huge open spaces, billabongs, birds, buffaloes and crocodiles. Kakadu is all of that – and more. It covers 20,000 square kilometres and is on the U.N.E.S.C.O World Heritage List in recognition of both its outstanding natural values and as a living cultural landscape. Certainly one gets the feeling on entering the Park that this is a special place. Aboriginal people have inhabited Kakadu continuously for more than 65,000 years and ancient rock art shows long extinct animals, abundant wildlife, landscapes and stories which deliver a profound experience for visitors. We found all this explained very thoroughly at the Visitor Centre and again at the Warradjan Cultural Centre nearby which is totally fascinating and not to be missed.

We stayed in Jabiru at the uniquely shaped Crocodile Hotel – now indigenous owned and very distinctive in the landscape.

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The restaurant served bush tucker as well as international food and the barramundi rolled in lemon myrtle was mouthwateringly delicious! There is also an excellent Aboriginal Art gallery there with numerous paintings I really wanted!

We found that we were somewhat limited in the places we wanted to go to because of the recent ‘Big Wet’ and there was an awful lot of water about with lots of roads and turn offs closed. One activity that runs all year round – with different departure points according to the amount of water on the road or in the river – is Yellow Water Billabong Cruises. We decided to do the morning cruise which was led by an Aboriginal guide with very strong connections to the Park. He knew everything about it and even where to spot the elusive crocodiles and the hundreds of different species of birdlife.

The cruise lasted an hour and a half and we were not disappointed. It was breathtakingly beautiful as we cruised along the river, through the billabong and across wetlands thick with water lilies, grasses and lotus plants.

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Then we found birds of all types including the whistling duck – the flock resting high in the trees and some on the lowlands.

Beautiful lotus flowers and water lilies were everywhere and our Guide explained how the local people pick them and use every part either for food or for craft – as, for example, the inner silk fibres used to make fabric.

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Several water birds were waiting in the reeds to catch bugs or fish and they in turn were in danger of becoming a meal themselves for the resident crocs!

Then, to the delight of passengers, the Guide found a young male croc cruising quietly down the waterway, at times he submerged himself and it was impossible to tell where he would surface. For a reptile that is so huge, it is amazing how they can make themselves almost invisible and disappear without a trace.

We learned more about Bush tucker and the different plants that grow around or in the water – essential for survival in the Bush. I actually have a new respect for the bushmen and their ancient way of life.

This is actually a road in the dry season. We were really feeling that we wanted to get more out of the Kakadu experience so we opted for an early morning Scenic Flight with Kakadu Air. At least we would see the waterfalls and the ‘stone country’ as well as get an idea of the vastness of the area.

Our pilot was Henry – a young Kiwi who has fallen under the spell of flying in Kakadu. He took us to the edge of the Park and into Arnhem Land as well as over Jim Jim Falls and Twin Falls, the spectacular escarpments and the vast wetlands west of Jabiru.

From the air we could see all six of the Top End’s ecosystems – wetlands, savanna woodlands, tidal flats, hills, floodplains as well as the amazing escarpments. The wet season up here is truly amazing. I was thinking of the early inhabitants of this area, their stories and how they respect the earth, the country and its spirit. Somehow it gets into your own psyche.

Finally, on the way back to Jabiru we flew over the Ranger Uranium mine which is in the process of closing down. It was thanks to the mining company ERA that the township of Jabiru was built some years ago and our Guide mentioned that it has benefited the area and the people and for that they are grateful.

However, the mine has done its job and now it is time to listen to the country, see the birds and wildlife and watch quietly in this special place called Kakadu.

The Road continues – Katherine to Jabiru

On April 8, 2019April 8, 2019 By alisonferryIn TravelLeave a comment

Katherine was a bit of a surprise. It holds great historical significance to local Aborigines (who make up 60% of the population) as it is where the lands of three tribes – the Dagoman, Jawoyn and Wardaman people – meet and has been an important meeting place for thousands of years. Sadly the Cultural Centre was closed as it was the weekend but we learned a lot from the guide on the Gorge Tour.

Katherine Gorge – now known as Nitmiluk Gorge is absolutely beautiful. Apparently “Luk” means “Place” and “nit” means “Cicada” thus the whole area is the place of cicadas. I have to admit I didn’t hear any but legends abound.

We had a very informative tour for two hours through two of the thirteen gorges which are of immense significance to the traditional owners, the Jawoyn people as home to the spirits of creation. Quietly motoring through the first gorge leaves one with a sense of peace and belonging.

Then we reached a crossing point where we had to change boats as the water level was low. Here more surprises awaited – ancient rock art.

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Some of the paintings were hard to find until they were pointed out and unlike many sites, these were not in caves but under overhanging rocks so they were sheltered over the years. The estimate is that they are more than 10,000 years old but that may well change to be older.

One painting depicted circles which told the people that bush potatoes were growing in the area. Another showed a figure upside down – apparently he was a sinner who had done very bad things in his life and would be forever remembered this way!

Huge sandstone cliffs line the river and in places there are sandy beaches and a lot of vegetation. Mostly freshwater crocodiles live here but in the wet season huge salties come in and have to be removed by the Park Rangers under a special program which relocates them mostly to Darwin to farms.

This is Jedda’s Rock – made famous by the 1950’s film and is about 62 metres in height.

Close to Katherine on the road to Pine Creek is the beautiful Edith Falls – we called in and found the most delightful little park with a large waterhole and a special swimming area – away from the crocodiles!

Notices are everywhere up here but one thing I have learned over the years is that Freshwater crocodiles are more afraid of us than we are of them and I have swam in waterholes with them – albeit keeping well out of their way!

There are lots of walks around Edith Falls and they are well marked and very well maintained. In fact the Park is a credit to the caretakers.

The road to Jabiru is excellent with lush country all around – there has been a massive amount of rain in recent days and so the creeks and billabongs are full. The road was devoid of traffic and at times we felt we were the only beings on the planet – wide open spaces, beautiful waterholes, no wildlife except the odd young dingo and a huge silence.

Then we came across “Termite Country” – these have to be seen to be believed. As they say – everything is larger than life and twice as vivid in the Territory!

Now we are about to explore Kakadu – or what we can due to the amount of water everywhere. I think perhaps a flight would be the best way ……..

On The Road Again -Townsville to Mt Isa

On April 4, 2019April 4, 2019 By alisonferryIn History, TravelLeave a comment

It has been two days of discovery. The 904 km drive took us through the charming town of Charters Towers with its many historical buildings and on to Hughenden where we visited the Fossil and Dinosaur Museum and were introduced to the world of dinosaurs and palaeontologists. The huge reconstruction of the Muttaburrasaurus takes pride of place in the gallery along with smaller replicas of flying creatures, underwater dinosaurs and lots of ammonites.

Next stop was Richmond where we called into the Kronosaurus Korner which is reputed to be Australia’s premier marine fossil museum. This is an unforgettable prehistoric adventure and a very realistic movie showed us how the great inland sea which covered this area 100 million years ago has left behind an intriguing story of the creatures of the Earth’s Evolution. I have to say this was a surprise in this tiny outback town and whereas I am not overjoyed with looking at a large number of rocks, the whole story was presented in such a wonderful way that I left totally converted and feeling so intrigued about all this prehistoric history that I pondered about it for the rest of the day!

The drive to Julia Creek was uninteresting – flat, open country with few trees and very straight roads. Now I understand why – this was an inland sea!

We have come across a couple of hundred Road Trains over the past two days, all heading for Townsville and the port and carrying massive loads of copper and iron ore. I am in total awe of the drivers of these huge vehicles and spent quite some time chatting to a young man who spends his time driving from Townsville to Darwin and back. This is his truck – and the bullbar was taller than I am!

We spent the night in Julia Creek which is such a quiet little town totally inhabited by millions of bushflies. They are horrendous. We walked to the pub where we decided to have a meal. The place was buzzing, not with flies but mostly with workers all dressed in their Hi-Viz shirts and enjoying a beer after a hard day repairing both the roads and the railway lines after the floods.

Leaving Julia Creek and heading for Cloncurry the landscape changed – gently rolling hills and granite outcrops, massive gum trees overlooking creeks and riverbeds and lush feed for the cattle everywhere. More discoveries awaited us. The Mary Kathleen Uranium Mine was located near here and is now closed but a very well presented museum tells the story and there is a wonderful display of gemstones. Here we also found out a lot more about the ill fated Burke and Wills, found some fascinating history about the Pioneers of the area and learned that Cloncurry is the birthplace of the Royal Flying Doctor Service. This fabulous little museum tells about the history of outback aviation, medicine and radio as well as the School of the Air.

All this information was almost to overload level and so I decided to have a little break and wandered over to the garden where the Rest Rooms are located. Imagine my surprise to see this:

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Once inside I found this:

This is life in the Outback !

And now here we are in the mining town of Mt Isa – tomorrow we are crossing into the Northern Territory and I am sure more surprises await. Stay tuned!

Reflections on Magnetic Island and Times Past

On February 20, 2015 By alisonferryIn Genealogy, History, TravelLeave a comment

Magnetic Island is a jewel in North Queensland’s crown and I look forward to each weekend when we can take the ferry across the bay and completely relax in our little paradise.

Last weekend I started to think more about the first white settlers who came to the island. We were walking along the shady path by the beach at Picnic Bay, which in itself is worth a visit. The old banyan fig trees that line the shore are fascinating with huge aerial roots and plenty of climbing opportunities for children who can let their imaginations run wild. There have been plenty of stories of goblins and fairies, dragons and monsters lurking deep in the twisted branches and all the while the cockatoos screech and play above looking for seed pods.

At the end of the walk there is a plaque remembering the life of the first known white settler. Harry Butler came to the island in 1876 after emigrating from Lancashire in northern England in 1867. My own family ancestors were also from Lancashire and at that time the county was important for it’s cotton mills and the industry arising from cotton. The countryside was beautiful and there were small villages and farms where people lived either from farming or spinning and weaving, which was done at home. They would send their bolts of cloth to the mill or factory via canal boat and canals criss-crossed the county with longboats providing much needed transport for coal and produce. The cities were grimy and crowded and living conditions harsh. I wondered about Harry Butler bringing his family across the oceans to the unknown and then choosing to settle on a small island off the mainland where there was nothing except opportunity.

Life would have been tough. A passenger, William Westacott, on a quarantined vessel Sir William Wallace noted in his diary on 3^rd October 1878 : ‘there is a hut and a man, his wife and six children and two brothers beside…..they have a fine garden….sweet potato, pineapples and corn …a lot of fowls, ducks and a dog.’ I tried to imagine Elizabeth Butler working in her garden in long skirts and heavy shoes in the heat and humidity of the tropical summer. Her English roses complexion would have suffered under the harsh sun in spite of large hats which were always worn. How different it must have seemed to them after Lancashire. Perhaps they thought it was their own little paradise.

The family planted an orchard and built another hut made from coral blocks and began to cater for people who came across from the mainland for picnics. Eventually they built thatched cottages so people could stay overnight and then, recognising the demand, they ran their own boat service to Picnic Bay from the mainland and built a temporary wooden jetty.

Thus began the first tourism venture on the island.