THE ROAD TO GOLD AND KALGOORLIE

On May 16, 2019May 16, 2019 By alisonferryIn History, TravelLeave a comment

Beautiful Salmon gums lined much of the road north from Esperance to the Gold city of Kalgoorlie. Located in the Eastern Goldfields area, Kalgoorlie/Boulder is Australia’s largest Outback city and one of the oldest – and many beautiful old buildings remain as a link to the past. We had heard a lot about this city and the mines and the first sight we came across was the Super Pit Lookout.

Here we could see a working mine in action and watched a blast. This pit is 3.7km long and 1.5 km wide and 600 metres deep. It is quite incredible to watch the workings and see the trucks weaving their way up and down- like little ants in a hole.

A shovel of a 994F loader is here for visitors to step into showing the sheer size of the machine.

The tyres are bigger than a man and the vehicle itself is a monster!

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Later, at Hannans North Tourist Mine we had the opportunity to climb inside and then fully appreciated what the drivers of these machines have to do day in and day out. This mine gives visitors the opportunity to experience gold rush history and modern day mining. Wandering through the re-created part of the mining camp, I really felt for the Pioneers and gold seekers in the heady gold rush days. Living in tents and huts of corrugated iron in the dry, hot and dusty town must have been hard but all were hit with “gold fever” and were sure they would find their fortunes here.

In a tribute to the Chinese who flocked here in large numbers and contributed to the community in many ways, the city has built a beautiful Chinese garden. Wandering through with soft Chinese music playing in the pavilion by the lake, it was easy to see how some of these people would have been very homesick and missed their country.

One attraction in Kalgoorlie that links to the heady gold rush days is “Questa Casa” which is Australia’s Oldest Brothel it has been in operation for 115 years and is possibly the world’s oldest working brothel. There are countless stories and books about how it was in “old” Kalgoorlie for these ladies of the night and the lonely miners who visited them.

This brothel has the famous “Starting Stalls” which are still operating and the girls throw open the doors nightly. Tours are available daily – sadly we didn’t have time to do one!

We wandered through the wide streets of the city and marvelled at the beautiful historic buildings – many of which have been restored and are now shops and businesses. With the golden light of late afternoon, this was a perfect time to appreciate the architecture and imagine the city at the turn of the century and earlier.

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Even the interior of some buildings has retained its past glory – as we saw when we had breakfast the following day before hitting the road across the Nullarbor.

THE OPEN ROAD TO ESPERANCE

On May 14, 2019 By alisonferryIn TravelLeave a comment

Esperance is located on the pristine Southern Ocean coastline and is often described as “out of the way” but it is well worth the effort to get there. It is surrounded by National Parks and many really beautiful beaches of pure white sand and crystal clear water in the most vibrant of turquoise hues.

We stayed in town where the foreshore meets the CBD and it is easy to walk to the many restaurants, shops and artisan galleries. The iconic sculpture of a whale tail is surely the most impressive along this stretch of coastline.

Just around the corner is the historic centre where old houses have been converted into galleries and gift shops and it is a really lovely place to wander and perhaps purchase an unusual gift to take home. What a great use for these historic buildings – keeping stories of the past alive.

The Great Ocean Drive is purported to be one of the most beautiful drives in Australia and it seemed that at every bend there was jaw dropping scenery. Towering cliffs, rugged bush, red rocks dropping into powdery white sand really does present an artists’ palette and even the most sceptic would agree that this is quite incredible.

Twilight beach is one of the most photographed in the area but each beach had its own special brand of beauty.

Many of the beaches had access via wooden walkways and stairs and safe swimming from either the flat rocks or the sandy beach is possible.

Beyond is the Recherche Archipelago with more than 110 islands offering perfect spots for diving, swimming, snorkelling and fishing.

Then, wearied by all this scenic beauty but not to be outdone, we drove out to Cape Le Grand National Park where we had been told of more jaw dropping scenery. This is possibly the most spectacular of the Southern Coastal National Parks and is about half an hour east of Esperance. The park’s rolling heathlands are home to pygmy possums and western grey kangaroos – and these can often be seen lounging on the white sandy beaches or skipping through the campsites and carparks and socialising with visitors.

We gasped when we saw Lucky Bay – it is honestly the most beautiful beach I have seen so far.

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Nearby is “Whistling Rock” so named because the wind whistles through the gaps and makes quite a musical sound.

Massive rock outcrops form a chain of peaks and Frenchman’s Cap was named by surveyor Alexander Forrest during an expedition in 1870 because it resembled the hats worn by French troops in the 1800’s.

Around 20 kms of coastal track link many of the spectacular coastal sections and rock fishing is popular from several of them.

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This is truly a fabulous part of the country to visit and we are told that wildflower season is magnificent with flowers of all types, including dense thickets of banksia, putting on a display. I guess we will just have to come back!

THE FOREST ROAD TO ALBANY

On May 9, 2019May 9, 2019 By alisonferryIn History, TravelLeave a comment

We spent five lovely days in Perth staying with friends and just relaxing after the 10,000km we have driven so far. Long sleeps, great restaurants and little walks through urban villages made this a wonderful R&R. All too soon we hit the road again. This time to Albany.

There were lots of pleasant forest drives to this southern part of Western Australia which made a nice change from the flat landscapes we have had for days previously. Albany is a small town on the southern tip and was known for its whaling station in the early days. The former whaling station now houses a museum from where migrating whales can be seen passing off the coast in season.

We made our way to a different museum – the National Anzac Centre which is located up on a hill in the Princess Royal Fortress. It overlooks the actual harbour where over 41,000 men and women departed Australia for the Great War.

Immediately on arrival you are given a card upon which is a photograph and the name of someone who served in the war. Then you follow their personal story through state of the art technology, multimedia and historic artefacts.

Mine was an Australian Army Nurse – Olive Haynes – who went to Gallipoli and then Egypt after which she was in Marseille and Boulogne in France. It was fascinating to learn of her journey, see her letters and follow her life. Happily she survived the war and lived to the age of 90.

There are amazing historical displays and many, many stories but one piece touched me deeply – a sculpture of a digger giving his horse a drink of water from his hat. Those men were deeply attached to their horses and the bravery of both is highlighted in the museum as well.

Albany has one of the most exposed coasts in Australia and about 20km from the town centre is The Gap – a 24 metre chasm to the ocean. We had heard of this area but nothing prepared us for the spectacle that awaited on arrival. Also at this place is The Natural Bridge which is a large span of granite that has been eroded and has formed an archway. There is a path leading to both attractions and even on the windiest day, it is possible to watch the fury of the ocean.

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The Natural Bridge is also amazing – and walking across the granite rocks to the bridge one can sense the magnitude of time and also think of the Dreamtime legends of the Aboriginal people.

The coast here is rugged and wild and there are countless stories of shipwrecks.

Later we went to the Torndirrup National Park in Albany where there are a number of lookouts and walking trails.

Being here amongst the cliffs, the wild sea, the granite rocks and in the little town made me think of one of my favourite novels – The Light Between the Oceans by M.L. Stedman – which tells the story of a lighthouse keeper and his wife in this part of Western Australia in 1926 following the Great War and is loosely based on a story here in Albany.

Finally, in this place of granite rocks, we stayed in a Hotel called Dog Rock – and this is why……

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Can you pick the dog?

The Coastal Road To Kalbarri and Perth

On May 5, 2019May 5, 2019 By alisonferryIn History, TravelLeave a comment

There is something special about being close to the sea – at least for me. I am in my element when watching the moods of the ocean, the vegetation, coastal scenery and the different lifestyles of the communities all along the coastal stretch. For a while we are out of the red dust, the dramatic landscapes and rock faces, the vast distances between places – not to mention the flies and the heat!

Leaving Shark Bay we visited the remarkable Hamelin Pool stromatolites. I had no idea what these were until we visited the Discovery Centre and so we were keen to see what it was all about. These Hamelin Pool stromatolites are the oldest and largest living fossils on earth. These are considered “living fossils” and are part of the Earth’s evolutionary history.

Now part of the Word Heritage Area, a purpose built jetty has been built over these amazing life forms so people can walk and observe without causing damage. This gives everyone has a chance to see what is of great interest to botanists and geologists and give an indication of what the earth may have looked like about 3.7 billion years ago when stromatolites grew widespread across the water.

Some scientists are now saying that this is what life on Mars may look like right now.

An easier explanation is the following quote:

The oldest Stromatolites in the world are found in Western Australia, and date to 3.7 billion years old. As such, the stromatolites provide a record of local environmental changes. Hamelin Pool in Western Australia is one of only four places on earth where living marine stromatolites exist and the location contains by far the biggest colony on earth.

Stromatolites which are found up to a metre high are believed to grow at a maximum of 0.3mm per year – they are truly “living fossils”. 80% of the history of all life was stromatolites – for that time, stromatolites were king.

Our next destination was Kalbarri. This little town on the mouth of the Murchison River is known for its seaside cliffs, estuary beaches, pelicans and birdlife and the National Park nearby. Once again there are gorges and and natural bridge forms and several scenic walks and climbs for those who are more adventurous.

When I did my first Road Trip all those years ago, there was nothing here except a couple of holiday houses and fishing shacks. Now it is a thriving tourist destination and very popular with families. The first thing you notice on driving into the village is the river – which is currently very muddy and so it is easy to see where the river meets the ocean.

There are sandy beaches close by which are protected by a reef – and the thundering surf beyond is quite spectacular.

Red Bluff is where ancient rock meets the ocean and the history of this area is interesting.

The first European people to visit the area were the crew of the trading ship Batavia belonging to the Dutch East India Company who apparently put ashore two mutinous crew members here. The wreck of another ship – the Zuytdorp – which sank in 1712 is also here.

There is a lovely little walk along the cliff top which illustrates clearly the problem ships would have had sailing into this area.

At the bottom of the cliff is a trail from the beach leading up to the top and here the contrast between the red rock and the beach is obvious. This is a popular fishing spot.

Bird life is prolific and at times, walking on the beach, the only company you have is our feathered friends.

Another interesting place to visit is Port Gregory and the “Pink Lake” . This is on the road south of Kalbarri and we were told one should see it in the morning when the sun is overhead. We were not disappointed.

The Hutt Lagoon has a pink hue created by the presence of carotenoid producing algae which is a source of B carotene, a food colouring agent and a source of Vitamin A. There are other pink lakes in WA and hopefully we will get to see more on this “Big Loop”.

History has always been a passion of mine and so a stop at Lytton close by was a must as this was a Convict Hiring Station and there are several ruins and many tales to tell here.

And finally – not far from Perth we came across an amazing sight – a desert in the bush. This is The Pinnacles – in Nambung National Park and is incredible.

These are limestone formations and some reach 3.5m. Some are jagged, sharp edged columns and others are smooth and rounded. There are thousands of them and they literally take your breath away.

And my favourite image is this one, of a little resident of the area out for his morning munchies!

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MORE ROAD TRAINS ON THE ROAD TO KARIJINI

On April 28, 2019April 28, 2019 By alisonferryIn History, TravelLeave a comment

Our next destination was Karijini National Park in the Pilbara. It is a long way from the coast and so we had to drive via Port Hedland for an overnight stop. To be honest, the road from Broome to Port Hedland is the most boring we have yet had to tackle. It is very long and very straight and there is nothing to see even though it runs parallel to 80 Mile Beach. Access to the beach is denied except through the caravan park.

Setting off for Karijini we were again to find the road long and mostly straight but this time we had dozens of huge road trains travelling to Port Hedland with their loads of iron ore. This is the Pilbara and the area is rich with culture and a huge array of natural rock formations, deep red in colour. The soil is a fine red sand which gets into everything and is hard to remove! There are gorges, rock pools and canyons in the two National Parks of the area and we were heading for Karijini which has beautiful scenery and much of it is accessible by car. We booked into an “Eco Tent” which was said to be “luxury” but having been on several African safaris, this was not at all up to the standard they were trying to attain. This being an Eco Resort comfort was minimal in the so called “glamping” tents. We used torch light at night as electricity was solar and we were conscious of waste. The tents were cooled by natural breezes – if there were any – with the result that the afternoons were very, very hot and early mornings freezing cold! We did have a small ensuite bathroom though which was roofless and it was fabulous to shower late at night and look up at the billions of stars. Being in such a remote location, the stars were simply amazing with no light to detract.

We were told of several walks which culminated in rock pools for a refreshing swim. Unfortunately it has been a very dry season and several waterfalls have dried up and the pools in which you are able to swim are hard to get to unless you are very fit.It was also very hot but the worst problem was the bush flies. There were millions of them and they were relentless.

On arrival at the Eco Resort, we noticed people walking around with fly nets covering their heads. It was comical really as they resembled aliens from another planet – dark nets covering faces and over hats of all shapes giving their heads an oddly conical or flat shape.

Unfortunately everywhere had sold out of the nets so we were not able to “join the party” and instead had to either stay in our flyproof tent or explore in the airconditioned car!

Weano Gorge is probably the best introduction to Karijini as there are easy walks around the top of the gorge as the more adventurous can venture down the rocks into the canyon. The lookout we went to gave unsurpassed views out over the Weano, Red, Hancock and Joffre Gorges. The sheer enormity and grandeur is awesome and must be really spectacular when the waterfalls are running.

The path in is sandy – the deep red of the Pilbara – and fortunately there was a breeze so the flies were not so aggressive!

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The colours of this part of the Pilbara are amazing at any time of day. This I remember from the road trip so long ago – but then this was not a National Park and we ventured in on our way to Wittenoom township which is now closed because of asbestos.

The roads are red dirt and the silver and green of the leaves plus the groundcover colours give a special sense to this place which is sacred to the indigenous people.

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We drove to Tom Price which is a mining town and a really impressive little community.

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With huge mining machines on display!

Sadly the flies and the heat drove us out of the beautiful Karijini Park but the drive was spectacular after a beautiful dawn rising viewed from our tent.

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Next stop – Exmouth on the Coral Coast – maybe the flies will be gone by then?

THE ROAD TO BEAUTIFUL BROOME

On April 28, 2019April 28, 2019 By alisonferryIn History, TravelLeave a comment

It was a short drive from Derby to Broome along a bitumen road which was easy. Broome is a cosmopolitan town on the coast which began during the pearling days in 1880’s. The population is a melting pot of traditional indigenous, Japanese, Chinese, Malays, Europeans, and Islanders.

It has an easy, laid back feel to it and, in what has become a tradition, viewing the magnificent sunset from Cable Beach is a must do on arrival in Broome! Many flock to the beach in their 4 wheel drives, others wander down slowly and sit on the rocks and yet others choose to watch the spectacle from the comfort of the Sunset Bar at the Beach Club or Zanders – both of which are located right opposite the beach. Two camel trains wend their way slowly along the beach carrying eager tourists and children and as the sun goes down and the sky turns gold and then pink.

The camels are a reminder of the Afghans who came to Australia in the 1840’s bringing their camels with them to assist in the exploration of inland Australia. Camels were also imported from British India at that time. Today they are mostly feral with some being used for tourism purposes.

Another tradition is to drive to Gantheaume Point which is at the end of a red gravel road and is a rocky outcrop which is stunning because of its intense red colour which contrasts with the very white sand of the beach and the shimmering aqua colour of the sea. Dinosaur tracks can be seen in the red rocks at low tide. There is an old lighthouse here and the Keeper’s house is still occupied. Legend has it that the Lighthouse Keeper had a wife, Anastasia, who was very beautiful but who was crippled from polio. She loved to bathe at high tide and so her husband found a little rock pool which had formed naturally near the house and which would fill up at each high tide and then empty again on the low tide. He would carry his wife down each day and thus the pool is now known as “Anastasia’s Pool”.

We have been to Broome several times and this time decided to stay at the Cable Beach Club which, although a little way out of town, is in an excellent location on the beach itself. Built in the style of the old bungalows of days gone by in the tropics, it has lovely gardens and an amazing Asian art collection donated by Lord McAlpine who developed the resort in the 1980’s. This is one of my favourite places on the west coast and we will definitely return.

Dusty Road to Derby

On April 23, 2019April 23, 2019 By alisonferryIn History, TravelLeave a comment

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Driving on these dusty roads is not without some danger – especially when you meet one of the huge road trains – the most sensible thing to do is stop and wait for both the road train and the dust to pass! Fortunately the trip to Derby was enjoyable with very little traffic and lots of contrasting colours on the way. We even had time to stop and have a picnic lunch on the back of the vehicle.

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Right alongside was another huge termite mound and having learned of the aboriginal significance of these mounds, I was wondering if this one contained the remains of a loved one. It was again an unusual shape compared to others we have seen on this road trip.

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Finally we arrived in Derby which is a small outback town on the edge of the King Sound. Its claim to fame is having the highest tides of any Australian port 11m (or 36 feet) which leaves the town surrounded by vast mud flats and mangroves. We were advised to go down to the town jetty – the Derby Wharf – to watch the sunset. Each evening a stream of people arrive with their chairs and eskies and settle down to watch the display and/or to fish. We were not disappointed, in spite of cloud cover the colours were magnificent.

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There is quite a lot of history with this town and we found the Boab Prison Tree seven kilometres out of town. This is a 1500 year old boab tree that was used as an overnight lockup for prisoners. Before Derby was established in 1883 Aboriginal people were kidnapped from the West Kimberley by settlers who wanted divers and workers for the pearling boats in Broome. They rounded people up, put them in chains and marched them up the coast. Some held their captives at the boab tree whilst waiting for a boat. This seems incomprehensible to us today and doesn’t bear thinking about. However it is now a “Site of Significance” to the local Aboriginal people and the tree is protected under the Heritage Act.

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There is a sign declaring that snakes are known to inhabit the tree and not to go near it – it is protected by a fence these days.

With a population of more than half being Aboriginal and with several communities nearby, there are a couple of art galleries to visit. One was closed but the other was definitely worth a visit and I would recommend to anyone in the area to stop by. It is fascinating and the owner, Mark Norval, is an artist himself who has spent more than 40 years in the area and has helped and encouraged many local artists.

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Several local people had come to the gallery that day and were sitting outside painting which was fascinating to watch. They are extremely shy and I asked if I could take their photos and was pleased to be able to converse for a short time with them.

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Inside was an incredible array of art and artefacts and I was very taken with a couple of pieces so purchased them and was delighted to find the young artist had just arrived, so she agreed to meet me and have a photo taken with the painting I had chosen.

Mark himself has some incredible work there and two pieces, which were not for sale, left me quite gobsmacked. They were portraits done on perspex so each side had a different face but was constructed with the same medium – paint, lace, bark, leaves and shells.

and the other side

I could have spent hours here at the gallery and spent hundreds of dollars but was pulled away and on we drove, to another straight road towards Broome.

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