The Red Road to Lake Argyle

On April 18, 2019April 18, 2019 By alisonferryIn History, TravelLeave a comment

The scenery is now changing on this Big Loop around Australia and the road to Lake Argyle turns off the highway and winds through the stunning Carr Boyd ranges. At every turn there is an amazing view and the colours of the soil together with the golden grasses and deep green of the thick shrubs would make an artist’s eyes water.

We crossed several water courses and finally came to the historic Argyle Downs Homestead. The home of the Durack family, this house was removed stone by stone when the property was flooded as part of the Ord River Irrigation Scheme and the formation of Lake Argyle. Now it has been rebuilt and and become a museum which serves as a reminder of the huge contribution that the family made in the pastoral industry of the North West.

Lake Argyle is Australia’s largest freshwater lake with a surface area of over 1000 sq. km and has a shoreline of 900kms. It is now home to around 26 species of native fish, 30,000 freshwater crocodiles and three varieties of freshwater tortoise. Hard to imagine that is was all once pastoral land which was home to native people, pastoralists and wildlife.

We stayed at the Lake Argyle Resort which has a beautiful infinity pool with views across the ranges and over the valley.

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In the evenings the setting sun gives a golden glow to the landscape visible from every part of the property.

A great way to learn about Lake Argyle and the huge project undertaken some fifty years ago is to take a sunset cruise. We set off with an introductory talk and an explanation about the building of the dam wall which, in itself, was an amazing feat.

Then it was a calm cruise across the massive lake watching for wildlife and, of course, the crocodiles! A sheen across the water and in the trees at one particular spot revealed the story of the Golden Orb spider. This spider never leaves the web and spins a web made of silk like thread which is extremely strong and has been made into a silk fabric. Scientists are now working on making a synthetic prototype which may be used in the future.

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We spotted a variety of water birds waiting for their prey and did a spot of fish feeding

The lake throws incredible reflections during the afternoon and today, being so calm, was the perfect example of this.

Our Guide and Skipper, Tracy, then gave a history of the area and the massive project which also resulted in several little islands being formed. She took us to “The Bay of Islands” and nudged the boat up onto the shore. Several little Walleroos came to investigate knowing that this was “feeding time”.

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Then we spied a freshwater crocodile – these have longer more pointed snouts than their fearsome saltwater cousins and said to be shy of humans. Nevertheless, I don’t think I would like to get tangled up with one.

Having said that, Tracy motored to a bay she takes people swimming at and encouraged us all to take a dip. Crocodiles or not, we jumped in and felt the beautifully soft water cool us down very quickly.

The sun began to set and it was a magical time of day. With champagne or beer in hand it was the end of a day on Lake Argyle.

Straight Road to Timber Creek

On April 15, 2019April 15, 2019 By alisonferryIn History, TravelLeave a comment

The endless blue skies and long straight road led us out of Darwin south towards Katherine. First we stopped at Pine Creek, a small town with a historical past. I was interested to see that at one time the Chinese well outnumbered the Europeans who were all there for the Gold Rush.

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Today it is a quiet town which services the tourist industry mainly. However, it is a good stopping point to take a small rest before conquering many more kilometres.

The iconic windmill which was so common in the past and now is seen less often in favour of solar power.

The next stop was Victoria River Roadhouse which also has accommodation and where many keen fishermen make their base before setting off on the Victoria River for barramundi. It was very hot, very dry and there were lots of flies, so I was keen to keep moving but not before we called in for a chat with the owners. Someone has a great sense of humour – see below:

Crocodiles live here so no swimming and great care is taken to put boats in and out of the water.

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The road began to curve after this and the scenery started to change to hills and escarpments. A nice change from the flat terrain we had become accustomed to. Now we are in The Big Country and this is where the Durack Family made their mark by settling on leases in the Northern Territory and walking hundreds of cattle up here from Queensland. Several books have been written about the family at this time – the most well known being “Kings in Grass Castles” by Mary Durack.

Finally we arrived at Timber Creek after some 610km from Darwin. It was a relief to find the Hotel/Motel/Caravan Park and the big surprise was the amazing location. In a dry, dusty landscape, this was a little oasis.

Lovely grassy areas where children could play and shady barbecue and picnic areas were dotted around all with the creek in the background. OHnUrFO0SL2qqMlSA%2fdg_thumb_1f2.jpg

Huge timber trees along the creek edge obviously gave the place its name and the creek now has several resident freshwater crocodiles. Wandering down to the water’s edge I was amazed to see quite a large croc just slowly surface from what seemed the calmest millpond. There was absolutely no indication that the reptile was there!

Other residents of this gorgeous place are the fruit bats – of which we have lots in North Queensland and consider them a pest – however there are some people who think they are “cute”.

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This morning we drove up to a lookout and learned the story of the “Nackeroos” – The North Australian Observation Unit (NAOU) or “Curtin’s Cowboys” which was formed in March 1942 after the bombing of Darwin and was made up of a group of soldiers and Aboriginal guides who patrolled Northern Australia looking for signs of enemy activity. They operated in small groups and most of the patrols were on horseback. They lived in the harsh bush conditions and were aided by Aboriginal locals who had knowledge of the area. Their story is inspiring and a monument has been built to honour them.

From this location is a great view of the town of Timber Creek and the Victoria River in the distance.

Now it is on to Western Australia and Lake Argyle in the Kimberley – the road changes from here on!

WORLD WAR II HISTORY IN THE TOP END

On April 14, 2019April 14, 2019 By alisonferryIn History, TravelLeave a comment

During World War II Darwin became the first mainland state in Australia to come under direct attack from the Japanese when it was the target of over 64 air raids causing huge devastation and many casualties. The attacks were totally unexpected at the time – in fact the sight of some 180 aircraft over the city caused many to believe the Americans had come to help. Instead, the bombing began and caught everyone unawares.

Much of this unique military history is preserved and scattered around the city. We drove to the East Point Military Reserve which is a beautifully tended area with picnic bays and shady rest points from which you can get a view of the city of Darwin across the bay.

This is where the Darwin Military Museum is located – some 8 kms from the city centre – and it is absolutely incredible with fantastic relics, photographs, displays, interactive stories and a very realistic film about the day Darwin was bombed.

Outside there are numerous displays set up in huts and hangars portraying the various roles the Army, Navy and Airforce played.

Guns, trucks, ammunition magazines and camouflaged vehicles also take pride of place in the grounds

One story which brought me to tears was of the selfless courage and bravery shown by a young gunner on board a ship the day the bombing occurred. He was strapped to his gun, had been hit and the ship was going down but he continued to fire allowing some of his mates to dive into the water and perhaps survive – he was fatally wounded whilst firing his gun – and he was 27 days short of his 19th birthday. The photo on the wall shows a painting of him firing whilst wounded. In later years the Navy honoured his bravery by naming a ship after him.

Following this visit we then joined Sea Darwin for a one hour tour of the harbour showing where the action occurred and where several wrecks are located including the USS Peary. The commentary included some stories which have since been related by survivors of the attacks.

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Various tunnels and lookout posts were pointed out and we had a really good perspective from the sea.

Finally we visited the RFDS (Royal Flying Doctor Service) museum on the wharf which not only gave the history of the Service (which we also saw in Cloncurry, where it all began) but also were able to board a plane as well as see a map of Australia showing where all 73 aircraft are currently located. This is, of course, constantly moving as many flights are in operation day to day.

There is also an excellent interpretation of the bombing of Darwin which is shown by Hologram film as well as by Virtual Reality.

This was the most amazing experience. One moment you are flying in the plane with a pilot shooting down the Japanese, the next you are wallowing in the sea with boiling timber, metal and oil all around. Bombs are flying everywhere and as you spin around and look up and down, the whole scene becomes so real that it is quite terrifying at times!

Interactive mini ghosts tell their story – including that of the first Japanese Pilot captured in Australia – Hajime Toyoshima. There is a full size replica Japanese Zero aircraft hanging from the ceiling and a replica of Camilla, the Flying Boat that escaped from Darwin Harbour during the raid.

For those interested in World War II history in Australia, Darwin is most definitely a place to visit as you can certainly have a very powerful, immersive and interactive experience at several locations.

The Road Leads to Darwin

On April 13, 2019April 13, 2019 By alisonferryIn History, TravelLeave a comment

Darwin, known as The Gateway to Northern Australia, is a lovely tropical city. With so much history to devour, you really need several days here. Then there are the world famous markets, festivals, cafes and a thriving arts scene and yet things move at a slower pace than down south and I can’t help feeling this would be a great place to settle for a while.

For a start there are fabulous sunsets and this one is from the balcony of a friend’s apartment very close to the city. There don’t seem to be traffic problems and on a drive to the museum yesterday this is what we came across :

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Hardly what you expect to see in the middle of a city!

We walked along the Esplanade and came to The Waterfront area which is both residential and recreational with a big wave pool and swimming lagoon and a park for the kids.

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There are restaurants galore and we settled for a coffee before walking back – with the bonus of a lift to take us back up to the Esplanade thus avoiding the slog of walking up the hill in the heat!

One activity the Darwinites love apparently is the Deckchair Cinema. This is down by the water and screens films nightly with a bar and restaurant food available if you don’t want to bring a picnic. How tropical is that?!

Keen to see the MAGNT (Museum and Art Gallery Northern Territory) we drove through the attractive seaside suburb of Fannie Bay and past the Botanical Gardens to find the Northern Territory’s premier cultural organisation set in a scenic coastal location at Bullocky Point with a restaurant/cafe alongside with views over the bay. The museum features collections of art from the region as well as natural science, history and culture. There is a lot of local history and there is a huge exhibit featuring Cyclone Tracey which devastated the city on Christmas Eve in 1974.

The collection of animals, insects, reptiles, shells and sea life is huge and it is all presented so well and the exhibits are so real that it is easy to imagine all this outside in the environment.

This is the little Jacana and babies – we saw several in Kakadu but they are shy and elusive so to be able to gaze upon these without missing anything is a real bonus.

Some fascinating aboriginal art is presented along with comprehensive explanations and even a desert artist shows her skill with a paintbrush fashioned from the tail hair of a dog – her intricate and steady lines were quite amazing. Her hand never faltered.

One immersive exhibition tells the story of the didgeridoo – or yidaki as it is known here. It illustrates the importance of the instrument in Aboriginal life and culture and begins with exploring a stringybark forest to find the right tree and then carving the yidaki and finally experiencing the mesmerising power of the sounds. The painting on the wood – as shown above – all has significance to the owner, the artist and the tribe. I actually felt goosebumps at the end of the performance.

And for those who are fascinated by dinosaurs this prehistoric skeleton is that of a giant goose – something I am sure 6 year old Hamish would love to see!

Tomorrow we will immerse ourselves in the era of World War 2 in Darwin and there is much to see and experience.

The Road leads to Kakadu

On April 10, 2019April 10, 2019 By alisonferryIn History, TravelLeave a comment

When you think of Kakadu the image conjured immediately is one of huge open spaces, billabongs, birds, buffaloes and crocodiles. Kakadu is all of that – and more. It covers 20,000 square kilometres and is on the U.N.E.S.C.O World Heritage List in recognition of both its outstanding natural values and as a living cultural landscape. Certainly one gets the feeling on entering the Park that this is a special place. Aboriginal people have inhabited Kakadu continuously for more than 65,000 years and ancient rock art shows long extinct animals, abundant wildlife, landscapes and stories which deliver a profound experience for visitors. We found all this explained very thoroughly at the Visitor Centre and again at the Warradjan Cultural Centre nearby which is totally fascinating and not to be missed.

We stayed in Jabiru at the uniquely shaped Crocodile Hotel – now indigenous owned and very distinctive in the landscape.

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The restaurant served bush tucker as well as international food and the barramundi rolled in lemon myrtle was mouthwateringly delicious! There is also an excellent Aboriginal Art gallery there with numerous paintings I really wanted!

We found that we were somewhat limited in the places we wanted to go to because of the recent ‘Big Wet’ and there was an awful lot of water about with lots of roads and turn offs closed. One activity that runs all year round – with different departure points according to the amount of water on the road or in the river – is Yellow Water Billabong Cruises. We decided to do the morning cruise which was led by an Aboriginal guide with very strong connections to the Park. He knew everything about it and even where to spot the elusive crocodiles and the hundreds of different species of birdlife.

The cruise lasted an hour and a half and we were not disappointed. It was breathtakingly beautiful as we cruised along the river, through the billabong and across wetlands thick with water lilies, grasses and lotus plants.

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Then we found birds of all types including the whistling duck – the flock resting high in the trees and some on the lowlands.

Beautiful lotus flowers and water lilies were everywhere and our Guide explained how the local people pick them and use every part either for food or for craft – as, for example, the inner silk fibres used to make fabric.

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Several water birds were waiting in the reeds to catch bugs or fish and they in turn were in danger of becoming a meal themselves for the resident crocs!

Then, to the delight of passengers, the Guide found a young male croc cruising quietly down the waterway, at times he submerged himself and it was impossible to tell where he would surface. For a reptile that is so huge, it is amazing how they can make themselves almost invisible and disappear without a trace.

We learned more about Bush tucker and the different plants that grow around or in the water – essential for survival in the Bush. I actually have a new respect for the bushmen and their ancient way of life.

This is actually a road in the dry season. We were really feeling that we wanted to get more out of the Kakadu experience so we opted for an early morning Scenic Flight with Kakadu Air. At least we would see the waterfalls and the ‘stone country’ as well as get an idea of the vastness of the area.

Our pilot was Henry – a young Kiwi who has fallen under the spell of flying in Kakadu. He took us to the edge of the Park and into Arnhem Land as well as over Jim Jim Falls and Twin Falls, the spectacular escarpments and the vast wetlands west of Jabiru.

From the air we could see all six of the Top End’s ecosystems – wetlands, savanna woodlands, tidal flats, hills, floodplains as well as the amazing escarpments. The wet season up here is truly amazing. I was thinking of the early inhabitants of this area, their stories and how they respect the earth, the country and its spirit. Somehow it gets into your own psyche.

Finally, on the way back to Jabiru we flew over the Ranger Uranium mine which is in the process of closing down. It was thanks to the mining company ERA that the township of Jabiru was built some years ago and our Guide mentioned that it has benefited the area and the people and for that they are grateful.

However, the mine has done its job and now it is time to listen to the country, see the birds and wildlife and watch quietly in this special place called Kakadu.

The Road is Straight – Mt. Isa to Katherine

On April 6, 2019April 6, 2019 By alisonferryIn History, TravelLeave a comment

Two days of roads like this – we are now in Katherine in the Northern Territory and I am more in awe than ever of the Road Train drivers. The distances are immense and the landscape from Mt. Isa to Katherine rarely changes. Just flat nothing and occasionally a few trees or scrub. Some of the roads are unfenced which means cattle wander across at night and often get hit by a vehicle so dead animals line the side of the road, particularly from Tennant Creek to Katherine.

The border is just after Camooweal where we stopped for a quick coffee at the roadhouse and I met Skippy…….

We decided to stay the night at Three Ways Roadhouse which meant we covered over 700km that day and this was a good choice. We had a comfortable motel style room with air conditioning – essential as it was stinking hot and the flies were unbearable! One plus was the sunset – it was simply amazing and became more vivid as the minutes ticked by.

Dinner at the Roadhouse Bar was interesting meeting locals and a couple of truck drivers. We were convinced we had made the right decision to stay here after numerous stories about Tennant Creek and the problems with crime which is rampant at the moment.

We set off bright and early and came across quite a few cattle grazing quietly. I just had to stop at a waterhole and capture a young calf having a drink.

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Then it was on to Katherine but not without a stop at the iconic Daly Waters Pub.

This has to be seen to be believed. The bar is draped with hundreds of bras in every size and colour. The legend is that a coach driver had a bet with his female passengers and they decided to leave their mark – and the tradition has apparently continued! The walls are lined with mementoes and outside the bark shed hang thousands of thongs!

This area is famous for locals with attitude and many stories to tell. Recently the country has been fascinated about the disappearance of a well liked local in Larrimah, just up the road from Daly Waters. No body has been found, neither has his dog and lots of theories abound but so far no one has been charged with anything. It seems this mystery will go on. A popular Podcast throws light on the story and it seems people are still talking about Paddy and are still looking for him. Of course, we had to stop and investigate for ourselves!

With that story firmly in our minds we drove on to Mataranka where the thermal Pool in the National Park is a constant 34C and flows from Rainbow Springs at an amazing 30.5million litres a day.

Mataranka is known as the “Capital of the Never Never” and was home to Aeneas and Jeannie Gunn at the turn of the century. Jeannie wrote the book “We of the Never Never” which has become a classic and a film was made in 1981. A replica of the homestead was made for the film and stands in the park today as a little museum. I was fascinated by the history and constantly wonder how women coped with the hardships of the day dressed in all the flowing skirts and long sleeves which were expected of “ladies” . I complained about the heat and flies today and I was wearing much lighter clothing. It kind of puts things into perspective somewhat!

So now we are here in Katherine and tomorrow will visit the famous Nitmiluk Gorge. There is a rich indigenous and pioneer history here so a visit to the cultural centre is planned as well as the art gallery. First of all tonight we will see what dinner awaits – crocodile steaks perhaps?

On The Road Again -Townsville to Mt Isa

On April 4, 2019April 4, 2019 By alisonferryIn History, TravelLeave a comment

It has been two days of discovery. The 904 km drive took us through the charming town of Charters Towers with its many historical buildings and on to Hughenden where we visited the Fossil and Dinosaur Museum and were introduced to the world of dinosaurs and palaeontologists. The huge reconstruction of the Muttaburrasaurus takes pride of place in the gallery along with smaller replicas of flying creatures, underwater dinosaurs and lots of ammonites.

Next stop was Richmond where we called into the Kronosaurus Korner which is reputed to be Australia’s premier marine fossil museum. This is an unforgettable prehistoric adventure and a very realistic movie showed us how the great inland sea which covered this area 100 million years ago has left behind an intriguing story of the creatures of the Earth’s Evolution. I have to say this was a surprise in this tiny outback town and whereas I am not overjoyed with looking at a large number of rocks, the whole story was presented in such a wonderful way that I left totally converted and feeling so intrigued about all this prehistoric history that I pondered about it for the rest of the day!

The drive to Julia Creek was uninteresting – flat, open country with few trees and very straight roads. Now I understand why – this was an inland sea!

We have come across a couple of hundred Road Trains over the past two days, all heading for Townsville and the port and carrying massive loads of copper and iron ore. I am in total awe of the drivers of these huge vehicles and spent quite some time chatting to a young man who spends his time driving from Townsville to Darwin and back. This is his truck – and the bullbar was taller than I am!

We spent the night in Julia Creek which is such a quiet little town totally inhabited by millions of bushflies. They are horrendous. We walked to the pub where we decided to have a meal. The place was buzzing, not with flies but mostly with workers all dressed in their Hi-Viz shirts and enjoying a beer after a hard day repairing both the roads and the railway lines after the floods.

Leaving Julia Creek and heading for Cloncurry the landscape changed – gently rolling hills and granite outcrops, massive gum trees overlooking creeks and riverbeds and lush feed for the cattle everywhere. More discoveries awaited us. The Mary Kathleen Uranium Mine was located near here and is now closed but a very well presented museum tells the story and there is a wonderful display of gemstones. Here we also found out a lot more about the ill fated Burke and Wills, found some fascinating history about the Pioneers of the area and learned that Cloncurry is the birthplace of the Royal Flying Doctor Service. This fabulous little museum tells about the history of outback aviation, medicine and radio as well as the School of the Air.

All this information was almost to overload level and so I decided to have a little break and wandered over to the garden where the Rest Rooms are located. Imagine my surprise to see this:

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Once inside I found this:

This is life in the Outback !

And now here we are in the mining town of Mt Isa – tomorrow we are crossing into the Northern Territory and I am sure more surprises await. Stay tuned!

A Medieval Find on the Welsh Coast

On April 29, 2016January 9, 2018 By alisonferryIn History, Travel, UncategorizedLeave a comment

They say that travel broadens the mind – it certainly does and what I truly love is discovering places with so much history. I imagine myself in a particular place at a particular time and sometimes wonder about “time travel”. On a recent trip to Wales this was certainly the case.

We were in Cardiff and about to explore the Pembrokeshire coast. Knowing very little about the area, we stopped at the Visitor Centre and chatted with the local staff member. She insisted that we stop at “the chapel in the rock”. Never having heard of this place, St. Govan’s, we decided to go and find out what it was all about.

The coast is absolutely jaw dropping – fantastic limestone cliffs, beautiful beaches, open grasslands, rare plants and many varieties of birds, caves by the hundreds and several World War 2 bunkers. There are pathways for walkers and rock climbers can be challenged by the sheer rock formations.

Just near here is Huntsman’s Leap and legend has it that a huntsman leapt across the chasm with his horse and then died of shock when he looked back at what he had done!

We crossed a grassy plain and found some steps going down the cliff and there, we found St Govan’s chapel. This tiny chapel is nestled amongst the rocks and is said to have been built in the 13th century although some believe it may have been as early as the 6th century after St Govan was saved from the pirates. During the 5th and 6th centuries it was common for Celtic missionaries to travel the coast. Tradition says that St Govan was being chased by pirates when a rock opened up for him to hide in and then closed until the enemy had passed. Govan stayed here for the rest of his life and prayed and taught here until his death in 586.

Whatever the truth, it is a fascinating place and the logistics of building a little medieval chapel such as this so long ago must have been enormous.

Govan’s body is buried beneath the rustic altar and his hand prints are on the floor of the cave – it is also said that one should make a wish here. We did – and I am still waiting for that wish to be granted!

There is an air of ancient mystery here and it is an area of secluded beauty and well worth any detour to come and visit, dream a little and travel back in time.

the grassy plain where steps lead down the cliff to the chapel

St Govan’s chapel is at St Govan’s Head, one mile south of Bosherston on a minor road in Pembrokeshire, Wales.

COFFIN BAY, THEAKSTONE’S CREVASSE AND WHALERS WAY – SOUTH AUSTRALIA

On July 16, 2015 By alisonferryIn History, TravelLeave a comment

No visit to Port Lincoln is complete without a trip to Coffin Bay and a tasting of the famous oysters. We set off for lunch at a newly opened restaurant but first we took a detour to the beautiful Whaler’s Way and Theakstone’s Crevasse which is some 32 km from Port Lincoln.

Located on private property – owned by the same family since 1860 and old friends of the Ferry family – we obtained the key from Bob Theakstone and navigated the sandy, winding road first to Cape Wiles which was named after the botanist James Wiles who sailed with Flinders in 1802. This is part of an area known as Whaler’s Way and an old whaling station can still be seen at Fishery Bay. The Whalers made a living off Southern Right Whale blubber and today these massive whales once again pass through the waters annually during the winter months.

Cape Wiles is truly spectacular and dozens of fur seals are often seen splashing around the base of the golden sandstone islands just off the point.

It was blustery but a beautiful day – so the clan gathered for a photo opportunity! Then we drove on to Cape Carnot which is at the southwesterly tip of the Eyre Peninsula and named by the French explorer Nicolas Baudin in 1802. The waves are often freakish and have claimed lives. The full force of the Southern Ocean meets some of the oldest rock formations on the planet and, well known to geologists, these rocks are some 2460 million years old. We didn’t have time to climb down to them but the view was pretty spectacular.

Finally we came to Theakstone’s Crevasse, which I first visited in 1969 and it hasn’t changed! It is a deep fissure along a fault line formed over millions of years and is 1-2m wide and 13m deep. The walls are said to be 9m high. The crevasse has been scoured by the sea and extends some 30m underground.

Time was beating us so we made our way out of the property and on to Coffin Bay where we had booked lunch at 1802 – a new restaurant on the foreshore of the pretty village.

Matthew Flinders named the bay in February 1802 in honour of his friend Sir Thomas Coffin who was Naval Commissioner at Sheerness where the “Investigator” was fitted out. The waters are calm and ideal for oyster farming which has grown over the years. Surrounded by National and Conservation Parks, this is an ideal family holiday location with lots of fishing, kayaking, walking, water sports and fabulous scenery. We were there primarily for the oysters and they didn’t disappoint!

Then it was back to Port Lincoln and a visit to the local winery – Boston Bay Wines which is located on the shores of Boston Bay.

Love the name of the Sav Blanc – this is the home of The Great White after all! We didn’t have the time nor the inclination to swim with the sharks but hundreds do!

Makybe Diva – the famous racehorse, winner of the Melbourne Cup and owned by Port Lincoln identities. The statue is on the foreshore and this was taken early in the morning on our walk to our breakfast spot.

Farewell to Port Lincoln – you have turned on the best weather and showcased the full beauty of the region which we have managed to explore in just three days but we all vowed we will return.

BRUNY ISLAND – BEACHES, WILDLIFE, SCENERY AND THE SOUTHERN OCEAN

On May 17, 2015 By alisonferryIn History, TravelLeave a comment

The moment we drove off the vehicular ferry onto Bruny Island, we felt we had stepped back in time. This is a stunning island and what is more surprising is that it is the size of Singapore in area which has a population of 6 million or so and yet on Bruny there are only 650 permanent residents.

The road to Adventure Bay, where we had booked a house for a couple of days, is well sealed and the drive takes about 40 minutes. Along the way found boutique produce such as cheese, wine, chocolates, fudge, salmon and a berry farm which was, sadly, closed as it was out of season. Undeterred we made our first stop at the oyster farm – this is pure heaven for oyster lovers. Workers were busy shucking as we got there, visitors were guzzling them down with buckets of wine and there were lots of sauces and accompaniments to tempt every palate.

Next stop was the Cheese Factory – where tastings were offered and the smell of wood fired sourdough bread was inviting.

On a little further and we found the chocolate and fudge shop – there the chocolate coated coffee beans won out but the choice was endless.

The scenery along the road is breathtaking and it is rare to pass another vehicle. Adventure Bay is towards the southern end of the island and we had to pass along a narrow isthmus which, apparently in days gone by, the local aboriginal tribes crossed regularly hunting for wallabies, fish and penguins. Now there is a well constructed walkway to the top of the hill affording magnificent views but also providing safe passage as this is also a penguin rookery.

It’s a long climb – but worth it once at the top!

I was very moved by the tale of an Aboriginal woman called Truganini. A plaque at the top of the hill commemorates her life which was forever changed by the white invasion. Her tribal connection went back 30,000 years and yet the arrival of white man brought violence and brutality. At the age of 17 Truganini witnessed the stabbing murder of her mother by men from a whaling ship, Sealers captured her two sisters, Timber getters killed the man she was to marry and she was repeatedly raped by the men, her brother was killed and her step-mother kidnapped by escaped convicts. Not surprisingly her father was devastated and died within months.

Following the loss of her entire family, Truganini worked as a guide and interpreter for George Robinson who had been appointed by the colonial government to persuade the Aborigines to peacefully give up their land. Promises were broken, people were exiled and many died of disease of despair. Eventually, Truganini spent many years at a settlement on Flinders Island before dying at the age of 64 in Hobart.

It is hard to imagine those dreadful days when today there is peace and serenity everywhere.

We arrived at the tiny settlement of Adventure Bay and found our house not far from the beach, up on the hill in a quiet little community. Wallabies greeted us at the top of the drive and then scurried into the bush.

The house is cosy and it wasn’t long before we had a log fire burning and a spread of delicacies picked up from the Deli in Hobart and local stores along the way, all washed down with fine Tasmanian wine. A perfect start to our little stay on Bruny Island.